Monday, September 13, 2010

Everything is huge, but it's all starting to look alike...


Day two of Beijing: time to really practice our listening skills. We tried some various types of fried eggs, rice soup, greenery, and filled baozi (steamed buns) for breakfast, wandered along the quite disgusting looking river (but the riverbanks lined with willows are gorgeous!) into an alleyway, which took us through a gas station, which led us to a tour bus just for us. Our drive to another part of the gigantic city was narrated by a tour guide who didn't speak English, so as we approached Tiananmen and the Forbidden City, we tried our best to pick up bits and pieces about the history of these places. What I found interesting was that people had to wear different colors based on their relationship to the emperor (very Confucian - strict determination of relationships). We passed by Beijing's oldest train station, and then headed to more of Beijing's historic sites, the first being Tiananmen Square.


Looking at Tiananmen Square today and trying to place myself in the scene of twenty years ago was impossible. To even get to the square, you have to basically tunnel down under a wall and come back up inside the square itself. Tourists galore, we didn't stick out, and the various traffic police, people selling wares, and guards who did speak to us were surprised we could semi-function in Mandarin. Even with the large numbers milling about, many with their umbrellas to ward off the beaming sun, admiring the huge flashing screens and the various statues strewn about, I can now see how thousands of protesting college students crammed in here and camped out for weeks while their conflicted government debated endlessly over how to deal with the situation. The closer we got to the famed Mao sign, the denser the crowds became. Thankfully even if we stopped to take pictures, we could reunite with our group by looking out for the tiny blue flag waving in the air.

Mao's mark on the Forbidden City (Gugong) is behind us as I pose with my roomie, Kellianne, and then my friend, James.



What I didn't realize beforehand is that Tiananmen is connected to the Forbidden City, the place where the emperor went to relax in his day. The whole concept of China doing everything on a grand scale? This palace is a perfect example. Our tour guide told us that there were so many houses for family, servants, and guests attached to the emperor's quarters that if a child slept in different house every night of his or her life, if would take them 28 years to sleep in every one! After tunneling once more, we reached the most crowded section: everybody funneling into the Forbidden City.


Going under the giant arch, we rubbed the giant gold knobs covering the huge scarlet doors for good luck like I learned in Karate Kid. We weren't the only ones being that silly - real people were touching them for luck too!


Emily and I also picked out the perfect vendor out of the maybe twenty who had shouted "Yi kuai yi kuai yi kuai!" at us from whom to buy a what was apparently a banana flavored popsicle. Yi kuai is about 15 cents - for a thirst quencher, not bad!


One of the huge palace courtyards. As I looked back at all my pictures of the intricate architecture, I feel kind of sad about it, but as we went through courtyard after courtyard of huge pavilions, everything seemed to look the same...









A giant virtually open space? Quite a rare occurrence in China!


Another thing I found really cool was that it wasn't until the Qing Dynasty (the last dynasty before the Republic of China) that the emperor started bringing in princesses from outside the palace to choose his empress. This complex is what I think are the princesses' quarter, what our guide called "a place of politics" because marriage was still used as a tool for political strength.


We kept meandering through the various hallways and archways to peek into some of the preserved ancient rooms and were also politely reminded to "no scratch" the "protected relics." We then found ourselves in a garden with some really awesome rocks!



After resting for a few in the excellent shade, we made a few zhongguo pengyou (Chinese friends) who wanted pictures with the white people! The guys were already taking pictures with this Chinese woman when we found them, so I tried to sneak a photo of them and she waved me over. After much protest, I jumped in with them, and then she squeezed me tight but ushered the guys out of the photo so she could have one with just me!



Shifu (masters) selling their various snacks and knickknacks lined the sidewalks as we exited, and a couple of our Dragon Riders stopped to barter on the way to our bus. Our group crossed the street and turned down another, and upon reaching the bus, we realized we were missing three! It took about twenty minutes of standing around, a few phone calls, and our tour guide running back to that sidewalk, but our students were found. All for a few bites of a granola bar creation!

Then we all headed out for lunch as a large group, which definitely received a few stares. The restaurant gave us our own room, which was pretty cool, but as our two large tables flipped through the large picture menus, we just started asking the waiter what he recommended. That just made things more complicated as he could understand us, but we couldn’t understand his thick accent! So we just started pointing at things and ended up with some jiaozi (dumplings), cooked veggies, soups, noodles and meat, plus cute individual-sized bowls of rice. I really enjoy the family-style eating, as all of the dishes go around the table on what basically is a giant lazy susan. What a messy situation, but still some excellent food!

We then reunited with our tour guide, and headed to Bei Hai, which is apparently a famous park with Buddhist temples. Outside was a little convenience store selling some unexpected items: ornament-sized globes filled with water and tiny fishes or turtles! Not the most humane concept ever.



Inside the park, Emily and I used a public restroom for the first time – an experience in itself! We definitely needed our own toilet paper… Unfortunately, we could not take pictures inside the Buddhist temple, but seeing three huge Buddha statues surrounded by beautiful cloth draped from the high ceilings was lovely. The group had free time to explore the park, so she and I followed some random paths and eventually found some of the others. A couple of the boys in our group paid the fee to dress up in cool outfits and take pictures, and apparently some of that store’s xiaojie (young women) found it quite amusing to see a huge, blonde young man in Chinese traditional dress.



We rested a little in that peaceful park, and then our bus took us to our last destination of the day: Silk Street, which, strangely, is actually basically a gigantic indoor market. Four floors of insanity. If you can imagine a level of a huge department store, instead of being devoted to one store like Macy’s, filled with myriad stalls of basically the same category. For example, one of the floors was clothing, so as we foreigners squeezed through the tiny aisles between stalls, we were shouted at from various directions in many efforts to trade our yuan for shoes, athletic clothing, Chinese traditional clothes, trench coats, etc. Taojia huanjia was the name of the game, AKA asking the stall staff to name their price for an item you’re eyeing, hopefully cutting the price by about 80% and then hoping you end up somewhere close to that. I wanted to pause and take pictures of this incredible experience, but you couldn’t help but speed past all the stalls you didn’t want to get roped into! I got about eight compliments on my hat, received suggestions to buy items for my family, husband, nan pengyou (boyfriend), and even was asked if I wanted a Chinese boy. No thanks! But I did end up finding a pretty cool Nike athletic shirt that would normally cost about $40 in the US and bartered it down to about $11! I made off with a couple other cute things to cross of my “buy in China” list, including two really pretty Chinese traditional style paintings. The artist worked right in front of us (though Emily and I bought already completed paintings), so after our purchases I got to snap a photo of him.






Other random things I observed:
- Compared to US large cities (the ones I've been to at least), there are a lot more trees in Beijing than I expected
- There is literally always construction somewhere - always trying to get better
- Red Bull's caption translated from Chinese is "vitamin functional drink"
- Kellianne and I were trying to figure this out, but we were wondering why the city as a whole didn't really give off a new, fresh, and exciting feeling like we've experienced in other cities. We came to the realization that there are extremely new buildings but also extremely old buildings, piles of demolished whatever lying around, etc. There's both new and old but nothing really in between, as if the semi-new is not maintained, the old isn't worth renovating but worth destroying.

For our dinner for our last night in Beijing, Rob took a bunch of us to a place he liked when he did a summer Chinese language program in Beijing. This restaurant, once we found it (we got a few stares after getting turned around a couple times in random dark neighborhood streets), specialized in Muslim Chinese and Tibetan food, so in addition to some of the more familiar dishes, we tried chuars – huge skewers of meat. The ones Rob ordered were nice and soft lamb that you just bite off all barbarian-like! Yum. A pretty chill night after dinner and some packing because we set of for Tianjin tomorrow!

Beijing: Day 1

After a little bit of a late night (China time), I finally got to sleep in our quite toasty and humid room. That is the norm in China - hot and humid for now. It actually seems quite a lot like Minnesota in that the north is hot and humid for the summer (but no mosquitos here anyways), and it gets snowy and usually damp cold for the winter. I slept like a rock for a few hours (on a rock... our rooms are extremely nice but the beds are, shall we say, firm) The jetlag really isn't too bad. Perhaps it was just nice getting in on a late (China time) flight so I could plop down on a bed after arriving. Granted there is some tiredness here, but at least it doesn't really feel like I have to adjust to the time difference; rather, it just feels like tiredness from long days.

Here are photos of our room - it's awesome. And the amenities are adorable - little shower caps, toothbrushes with the tiniest toothpaste tubes imaginable, and slippers among other things!

The towels even have the characters for the hotel engraved - another nice touch.



On our first day in Beijing, we had great luck that our own Professor Zhao was on Chinese national TV at 7:38am doing a lecture on Laozi (Lao Tzu), and so our Chinese Civilization class began. Our next assignment was to take our breakfast tickets down to the swanky little buffet on the ground floor, stare at both Chinese and English on the food name cards, still not be quite sure of what we were eating, and debut our chopsticking skills. And don't worry, the other two from my taxi group last night made it here safe and sound, apparently only about 10 minutes after we did, because they ended up in a different terminal and the buses between terminals had stopped for the night. We all greeted each other over a spread of veggies, eggs, rice soup, and various forms of fried and steamed, possibly filled, dough.

After a group meeting in the lobby, Zhao took us for a spin around Jin Chun Yuan and the famous Lotus Pond. Cute stone arch bridges over lily-padded waters (this natural body of water actually looks clean - the river we cross to exit campus: not so much) and winding pathways not quite big enough for two people wide unless somebody wants to take a refreshing tumble into the pond led us to a park where everybody was doing their Sunday morning exercise. It was adorable old people galore! A couple of our own even joined them in the dancing, though the American swing had somewhat of a different feel to it than Chinese social dance.





























After hanging out under the beautiful pavilions for a little while, we made our way to go say hello to Confucius. Zhao Laoshi gave us about an hour lecture on the history of Confucianism in China in about half Chinese half English, so many Chinese passersby snuck photos of us and listened in as well.



After the conclusion of "class" for the day, the group split up as some went to go buy Chinese cell phones and others ended up in different directions for lunch. My group of pengyou (friends) ate at a restaurant where some of them had actually eaten the night before, and in kind of a comical situation of table switching that resulted in a group just arriving receiving our food, we all managed to eat a bunch of wonderful dishes that we still didn't know how to read but at least how to pronounce. Then a quick stop in at a convenience store where I found Hi-Chew (Asian Starbursts, only better), blueberry-flavored Xylitol gum (China is ahead of the US in healthy gum!), and banana chips for snacking. Yum.

Some observations so far:
- Literally whenever you get hungry, you can always find something - either a snack on the street which you can bargain for or some sort of eatery. Cantaloupe on a stick would be a wonderful addition to the MN State Fair - it's everywhere here! Some random sort of granola bar creation, nuts roasted on coals right in front of you, and roasted corn and yams are pretty popular too.
- Everybody loves to ring their bike bells (just like Dad and me!).
- I love taking pictures of people and their bikes. I'm really fascinated by the people here. I am loving taking pictures of everything large and small, and I'm trying to do my best to get good people shots without being a truly creepy, insensitive foreigner.


For the afternoon, we regrouped to go to the Summer Palace where the Empress Dowager of the Qing Dynasty resided. We learned about history as we wandered around the incredible lake and the intensely beautiful ancient Chinese architecture. It's so much better than I imagined it when I read The Last Empress a couple years ago. Also much louder and much more crowded than the palace was when it housed the Empress Dowagers and her servants. But definitely gorgeous. Apparently she took money out of the navy budget to revamp this place for her birthday one year...












This cute little old man was just hanging out, writing characters on the pathway in water - so cool! Jake then joined him.



The group splintered to explore more of the Summer Palace for ourselves, so Alek, Emily, Brian, Kellianne, Rob and I took a lovely walk by the lake and then decided to hike to the top of the palace!

This is apparently the longest corridor in the world:


As we were walking along the corridor, this adorable man in traditional dress with an awesome beard was just taking pictures with people, so we snuck photos of him. Which he then noticed. So as we kind of snuck away, he started taking pictures of us! Emily was the only one to work up the courage to ask for a photo with him, and then I just felt silly and asked for one too! He complimented us on our Chinese and said we were cute too. How funny.


Some random photos from our walk: dragon boats, vendors, architecture, our climb.







The view from the top! (Check out the actual city of Beijing to the left.) Then we made our way down and wandered along Suzhou Street kind of at the foot of the palace where we found fun trinkets, received compliments on our Hanyu (spoken Mandarin), and admired lots of cute people and crafts.







From each hole in the wall we passed, the people sitting outside beckoned us to come have a look at their wares, and one time was a kind of entertaining experience. One store that we entered was filled with beautiful silk scarves (which I would love to buy at some point), but the saleswoman was in the middle of taking a picture of a little girl posing on a throne all dressed up in what seemed to be an ancient princess-style dress with two young women as her handmaids. When we walked into the store, I asked if I could take a picture of them too, and then the little girl asked us to be in the picture too! We then gathered that she was the saleswoman's daughter because this adorable woman asked us a question since we spoke both English and Chinese: we were handed a tube of medicine, the woman showed us her daughter's scraped up knee, and I got to explain how to use Neosporin in Chinese!


We figured out the Beijing subway system for our ride back - 2 yuan for our ride back (something like 25 cents) with help from Rob because he had been in Beijing doing a Chinese summer program. The subway is really nice and clean, much better than the US. It got us back in a decent amount of time for a shower before Zhao Laoshi treated us to dinner at the hotel restaurant specifically so we could try Beijing's specialty: Beijing kaoya (Peking duck). It's always a dicey game to play to figure out exactly how many dishes to order, especially because food is automatically family-sized shareable portions, but it was great to have dinner in such a large group to try some yummy kaoya as well as a bunch of different kinds of shucai (veggies), dumplings (jiaozi), doufu (tofu), and meat dishes too so we could have an idea of what we'd like when we're on our own for meals.

After dinner, as part of my work I helped Zhao Laoshi write the first letter to the parents about our adventures, and then Kellianne (my shiyou, roommate) and I had a pretty chill evening. The picture count for my first day and a half, I was told by iPhoto, was 313. Therefore, I'll try to put up a few more of my favorites on Picasa too. Thank goodness for laptops and large camera memory cards!

Until I'm able to write again, love from China!