Friday, September 24, 2010

Admiration of the moon and foreigners alike

Class days this week felt like high school again. We had to shangke (go to class) four hours in the morning and four hours in the afternoon a few days this week, renewing my ganxie (thankfulness) for flexible college schedules and fewer hours in class. But it was definitely worth it, as the reason for extended class hours was because as Nankai foreign students we were invited to partake in a Tianjin festival on Friday morning. So instead of Hanyu ke, Friday became a full day of Chinese civilization!

After seemingly ages of class on Monday, many of us went to the travel ticket office on campus to make arrangements for our midterm break week. My travel group anticipated only a semi-complicated experience since we knew where we were going and we were flexible about our train time on our travel day. But as we stepped into that small warehouse building and saw the huge line to the tiny window behind which a rather crabby woman sat attempting to communicate with these foreigners, we quickly revised our assumptions.

The group at the front of the line was comprised of some of our program's most fluent speakers, so as all we could distinguish from our place in the line was argumentative chatter, that made us a little more zhaoji (worried). We ended up talking a little in Chinese with the girl behind us in line, who was actually an English major and a lifesaver. The ticket agent got so frustrated with the waiguoren (literal: outside country people) and asked the Chinese students if any one of them could speak English, so the girl helped all of us. That seemed to further annoy our better Chinese speakers because the communication was not the issue; what they needed was certainty about their tickets!

Thankfully, after playing a couple random hand counting games with a couple Chinese students also in line behind us, it became our turn, and our flexibility I think soothed the woman somewhat. We just wanted to hop on a huoche (fire car, aka train) to Tai'an on October 1st, and we ended up buying tickets we had a hard time believing were real! But all the locals we asked assured us that when the trains sell out of chairs, you can still buy tickets for the train. So we ended up forking over money under the premise that in a few days the woman would have paper tickets for us to board a train at about 7am to stand (or sit on our backpacks) for four hours. Luckily, a few days later we received a call from her that she was able to procure tickets that gave us seats on a later train for the same price! While the entire experience stole an hour and a half of our Monday afternoon, my group was in and out in only fifteen minutes!

Tuesday was our last Beijing opera class, and this time we got to learn some of the movements and some of the props! This is Max with our adorable, dramatic teacher learning about the common jingju ways to demonstrate riding a horse.

Jake volunteered to get up in front of the class to learn the jingju form of baton twirling.



And Emily snuck pictures of us attempting to draw elegant circles in the air with fairy-like hands on counts yi-er-san, and when our teacher exclaimed "si!" (4), we were to flick our wrists and freeze with a wide-eyed stare at the audience.


Our class and our laoshi, Yer and I even got to don the old-style jingju outfits with enchantingly long sleeves:


Tuesday and Thursday we also had Taiji class in the afternoons, and you could tell our laoshi is a pro! Teaching completely in Chinese, we were basically able to follow along simply by watching him demonstrate and attempting to follow along. What I found really cool was that he did a good job explaining the martial arts influence for each move of Taiji we learned. Next week he'll teach us some wushu also, some actual Chinese martial arts!


After taiji class, Max, Kellianne, James, and I met up with our friend Zhangxun to hang out and go to dinner. He does some serious taiji too, so he asked us about our class and proceeded to demo a few of the forms he practices.

As we watched Zhangxun's taiji, a young kid was watching us in return as he bounced around picking flowers.






I wish I could have picked the blossoms as well, but I was content to just photograph a couple.






Max, Zhangxun, and Kellianne going over some crazy jingju, not taiji, hands.










Wednesday and Thursday we were about the only kids in school because the Chinese have vacation for Zhongqiujie, Mid-Autumn Festival. Our poor laoshi had to forfeit those vacation days to come teach us so we could have our midterm break in one lump sum, but with random 8pm fireworks on Tuesday night and the sounds of celebration throughout the dorms, none of us really felt like doing homework...

But we definitely did get to celebrate Zhongqiujie in our own ways! All the students in the program met in one room do to skits related to Zhongqiujie, so many read poems, sang, and did other silly things to demonstrate the normal Chinese traditions of eating yuebing (mooncake - there are tons of varieties! some rather disgusting, akin to the American fruitcake, but others yummy filled with different jellies or fruit paste), spending time with family, and giving distant family members a call.

We were lucky that the rain cleared out the smog a couple days prior, because one of the typical Zhongqiujie activities is also shang yueliang, to go outside and admire the moon.



After an afternoon of parking lot tennis with Max (during which we made a couple new Chinese friends, including an old man who may or may not have tried to convince us to buy his violin, a shy guy who came and watched and said it was his first time speaking with foreigners, and a freshman from Sichuan who jumped in and played with us!), Zhao laoshi also instructed us to have our own Zhongqiujie celebration, so we had refreshments and many different kinds of Chinese snacks before we headed out to go admire the moon. Awaiting the food, Zhao laoshi and a few students practiced a silly little trick he taught us (that quite possibly could be something he made up because no other Chinese person we've talked to has ever seen it before!). You have to put on your best Beijing accent (yes, its sounds a bit like pirate speech with an "arrr" sound attached as a suffix of sorts to many words) "Lao tour, lao tour, ni qu nar? Wo qu shangdian mai yanjing!" In English, old man, old man, where are you going? I'm going to the store to buy glasses!















Here are a couple pictures from our small festivities. Yuebing, ramen, chuanr, and other little random pastries etc. arrived. Even koalas!





Then some broke off to go to a pretty spot by the train station while a big group of us took about a thirty minute walk to the TV tower, apparently one of the tallest in the world. The moonlight shone brightly and provided a lovely atmosphere for this concrete park surrounding the tower. I was entranced by a group of Chinese punk breakdancers but was too shy to approach them to ask them to teach me something... Many of our own students strapped on rented roller skates and blades like the locals and zoomed around attempting tricks and quickly learning the skates lacked brakes...




Entertainment was also found in this enormous fuzzy dog owned by a Korean family!







Thursday afternoon's culture class was huihua: Chinese painting. I love Chinese-style paintings of elegant landscapes, cute cherry blossoms, and dynamic wildlife, and this time we got to try! We all experimented with different styles of paper and brushes to control the water as best we could, otherwise the thin line we attempted just devolved into a rapidly enlarging blob on our paper.


We got to grab a book of master paintings to match our interests and set about making our creation look somewhat like we saw on the page.

















I grabbed a book of frogs to try to replicate, and here's my favorite two of my attempts:


Following huihua, a bunch of us set up a slackline to get in some balancing practice before taiji class, but yet again our highlight was not the slackline itself but who it attracted.


This time our most interested observer was a little three year old girl with ringlet curls who just stared us, entranced by giant foreigners throwing frisbees and waving about madly in attempts to stay on the line. She eventually became comfortable enough to toss the frisbee a little, but she really lit up and even started talking when she saw our cameras! She wanted her picture taken and then shown to her, and then Emily and I loaned her our cameras for a few as she snapped all our pictures. She also rather enjoyed my array of facial expressions and agreed with me that I'm weird. She even stuck around a little while when we had taiji class! What a cute xiao pengyou.






Max then received a phone call from our tennis friend we met the previous day who wanted to take us out for a traditional Chinese dining experience, hotpot! Kellianne, Max, Brian, and I met Yangyang by our parking lot tennis locale, and he first took us through his university, Tianjin Daxue. Nankai is cool and all, but it was fun to see the beauty of the adjoining, also reputable university.

Kellianne was initially slightly apprehensive about going out to dinner with some random Chinese guy, but upon meeting him she realized he’s about the least threatening guy she’s ever met. He is a spunky freshman (but didn’t look older than 14) with pretty decent English about my height but beanpole width, but to top it off, his name means “sheep sheep.” After letting Yangyang guide us to an authentic Sichuan style restaurant in a village outside the universities, we foreigners, perhaps mistakenly, gave his enthusiasm and whim free reign in ordering food from the waitress who couldn’t have been a day older 12.

How hot pot works: there were two halves of a yin-yang shaped pot of boiling oil; we asked for one spicy and one not. Then arrived small bags of frozen meat (we had chosen yangrou and niurou, lamb and beef) as well as an array of other plates. Your first task is to throw a bunch of the frozen meat strips into the pot, let those cook well, and eat those with your sauces of choice so as to avoid cross-contamination. The sauces were a various range of spiciness, from Yangyang’s preferred Sichuan hot to what Brian as “dipping your dinner in peanut butter” – a virtually spice-free peanut sauce!




Here came the even more interesting part: the foods we ended up trying. We wanted to know what we were getting ourselves into, so as we tried to make heads or tails of the dishes covering our table begging to be next thrown into the pot, we pointed to each and asked Yangyang, “Na shi shenme?!” What is that? Many were harmless vegetables like cucumber, lettuce, bean sprouts and bok choy. Others were slightly more worrisome to my texture-preferential tongue, mushrooms for one.



WARNING: For the faint of heart/stomach, you might want to skip down a bit…

A few foods that really wouldn’t be considered foods in the United States that we stomached (but definitely didn’t finish off the plates) were as follows: duck intestine, cow’s throat, and lamb brain. Kind of fun to say we’ve tried them, none of them I would try again, but we all survived by dunking them in our peanut sauces and sharing in the experience (and Kellianne and I ate some ginger once we got home to ward off any intestinal worries).



Thankfully we awoke with stomachs hai hao, alright. We partook in some classically Chinese customs this week, and Friday capped it off. We were to miss class to go to the parade celebrating Tianjin’s history. Which, strangely enough, involved us white people. A week prior, Zhao Laoshi was asked by some cultural ministry something or other for ten young white men to volunteer to dress up as Scottsmen to be in the parade! Tianjin celebrating its history? Its history is characterized by foreign influence (and partitioning), as evidenced by the architecture in the various European regions of this port city’s downtown.



We foreigners served as great entertainment. The rest of our majority Caucasian group on the sidelines captured the attention of many a photographer (who then expected Hera to have perfect Chinese to explain why we were all there, despite the fact that, albeit her Chinese is quite good, she is Korean), cheered hard for our boys as they had their two minutes of fame in this tiny parade, and then got ushered into carts headed through the parade route as well. We were introduced as “laowai pengyou,” foreign friends, from Nankai Daxue.














Our own little tour through the parade!





What an interesting experience. The violinists weren’t actually connected to a sound system, the girls who were announced as Brazilians dancing the samba were 1) Russian and 2) not all that great of dancers, our guys are just random white guys and perhaps the highest percentage of Scottish in their blood is about 3%, and the tiny, yet adorable, cartoon character costumes were in fact filled with small Chinese grandmothers!

To usher in the weekend, following the festivities, the guys made for quite a sight as, upon learning they got to keep their kilts, promptly left them on for lunch in Xinancun. Zhao Laoshi then generously invited us over to his home for some tea and Laozi (Lao Tzu) versus Kongzi (Confucius) discussion.







And apparently some of those photojournalists got the word out about us—check out the Chinese online news featuring cong Ka’erdun lai de Nankai liuxuesheng (study abroad students from Carleton)!
http:/news.022china.com/2010/09-25/341669_2.html
http://www.takungpao.com/roll/roll/1413648.html
http://news.022china.com/2010/09-25/341669_1.html

Until next time!

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Getting cultural

This weekend was pretty chill but still a fabulous time exploring. Kellianne and I relaxed on Saturday morning and went to Xinancun for an early lunch, where I discovered a pretty awesome car. I don’t know exactly how this happened, but for some reason, China also really enjoys my hometown hero, Snoopy! I happened to be wearing my rainy day Snoopy shirt in the drizzle and found this car in the Xinancun parking lot.

A few of us had a little bit of a study party in our room, an interesting combo of silliness, laughter, Chinese, and Korean music, and then Kellianne, Liz, Emily, and I went on adventure in search of dinner. We went past our normal dining choices on the street and in the village and discovered another whole street! But what we really enjoyed was oohing and ahhing at a qipao (traditional style Chinese dress) store window, ignoring our grumbling stomachs for a few minutes to go in, look around, and promising the shopkeeper we’d be back at some point.


We got another opportunity to test of our Chinese skills Saturday night because we invited our friend Zhangxun to join a bunch of us for some card games! That we had to explain completely in Chinese. He got pretty good at Speed and Slap the Egyptian Rat by the end of the night, which was also celebrated with some Chinese snacks and the craziest fruit I’ve ever seen: huolongguo, fire dragon fruit. The name and exterior are daunting, but the taste is quite mild.


Sunday morning we finally found on Chinese TV a hilarious children’s program Rob discovered this summer and told us about – Xiyangyang! Literal translation: Happy sheep sheep. Good news is we can understand most of it, so we have about the fluency level of three year olds. Yay. I also learned a lot of useful vocab by keeping the TV on after it changed to kiddie art programs, and then we were both amused watching Chinese pro Latin dancers! Well, I probably found it cooler than Kellianne did, but it’s definitely better than Chinese soap operas!

Lunch in Xinancun again, and then before meeting up with Liz, Emily, and Yer to go to Wenhuajie (culture street), we took a walk to the little park where Zhao Laoshi had brought us. Here’s a picture of me with the Nankai map.

Getting to Culture Street was interesting. It was pretty much a straight shot a few miles from Nankai, but we asked the taxi driver if we could pile the five of us into a taxi, so we got awfully cosy!

The district named “Culture Street” seemed to be just an elaborate village laid out still in perfect condition from ancient times, now surrounded by huge, modern skyscrapers.


Objective: find as many interesting artifacts as you feel like carting around in your suitcase.
15 minute rule: No buying anything in the first fifteen minutes because the same or similar products could be found or haggled for cheaper prices the further from the entrance you wander.
Method: Zigzag with your friends across both sides of the sidewalk to enter whatever shops look interesting.
Common interests: All of us are determined to buy qipaos at some point in China, and a couple of us would love to bring some cool paintings back as well. And of course whatever we think our family members would like (and use).
How it played out: we stopped in literally every qipao store we saw and peeked into a good number of painting stores as well. And whatever else snatched our whim.

Some photos from the day:















We all made it out with some lovely purchases and then finally got to capitalize on our DQ urge! During the taxi ride we spotted a promising sign just a few blocks from Wenhuajie, so we entered the gigantic mall called “New World Department Store,” escalatored down to the DQ, and finished off some small blizzards. They even tasted like authentic, born in MN DQ. Real dinner consisted of a few lamb chuanr back at the village after we walked halfway back and then shoved the five of us in a taxi whose driver asked one of us to duck down just in case!

10 pm was time for our first study break! There was a sizable turnout in the triple of the boys’ RA, James Beck, and thankfully Kellianne and I had bought enough Chinese snacks for everybody. Jake was even nice enough to make hot tea for everybody interested too, as most people caught up and shared their respective tips, stories, and plans.

A full week ahead, goodnight!

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Smog, baozi, jiaozi, chuanr, and Zhongguo pengyou

Where to begin... We've been in Tianjin for a few days, and it's really nice to actually settle into a city even though we'll only be here for about two and a half weeks total. I'm still waking up early and getting tired really early, and I think it's this whole one time zone for all of China thing that has me all screwed up - we're on China's east coast, so it gets late early around here! Here the sun sets a bit before 7pm... Otherwise, western China, in the middle of Asia, wouldn't have a sunset till like midnight!

Thursday was an early morning for Kellianne and me because we were the only ones who volunteered to go with Zhao Laoshi to check out people doing Taiji in the park. Apparently there are a good number of people that do this every morning beginning at 6:30. People come and go though the group moves as one doing a style of Taijiquan (tai chi boxing) that has 80 plus forms and then practicing Taijijian, tai chi sword. We left the dorm at about 6:30 so we didn’t get to the park until the practitioners were in the middle of their routine, but Zhao jumped in as Kellianne and I were content to watch.

Zhao then took us to pop over to Xinancun for breakfast and treated us to a couple of Tianjin dishes. The first was a kind of rice soup that I’m not sure of the name, but the other was jianbing, a type of food that can be found throughout China but is from Tianjin! The kind we got was prepared for us by one of Zhao’s laopengyou (old friends) and though other kinds are simply fried dough with various insides, ours was the jidan, chicken egg, variety. Picture a sopapilla if you know what that is, or an extremely oily, bubbly, crispy piece of fried dough that then is encased in a huge fried egg. Both the dough and the egg are about large crepe sized and folded into one another so as to also wrap in the greenstuffs inside. A little too oily for my taste, and quite filling!


Zhao's friend making our jianbing:


Our xiaopengyou (small friend, aka how everybody addresses a child) who kept biking all over the market yet coming back to us:


After our lovely dining experience sitting on plastic stools in the middle of the craziness of a tucked away street market, Zhao took us the scenic route to class by way of a small square in front of the new library. There were quite a few Chinese students alone talking to themselves, and when we reached a decent hearing distance, we realized they were all practicing English aloud to themselves! Kellianne and I hope to perhaps come back here some day, perhaps make some new Chinese friends, and swap language tips. We also had a look at the daily newspapers which are behind glass for anyone to see.


Time for class! Mornings are dedicated to Hanyu ke and lianxi (Chinese class and practice) for which our program is divided into three sections: 207, 307.1, and 307.2. 307.2 is for the most advanced students, most of whom have done more language training outside of Carleton, thus, I am in 307.1 with just 6 others. Our teacher, Xiao Laoshi is a petite 24-year-old young woman who will very soon have to get used to a bit of our silliness and insanity. Thankfully three short breaks are inserted into our four hours of Chinese class so we don’t completely overwhelm our teacher.

A bunch of us went to the canting (pronounced tsanting, means dining hall) for lunch. Woah. At lunchtime it is completely packed with students, so once you pick a food station and hand over a few kuai, if you’re hoping to sit with your friends you have to stalk a section of tables until one opens up. Then pounce!

At 1pm we had our first culture class. Different facets of Chinese culture are taught to us each day, so Thursday we struggled to write our names as beautifully as true shufajia (calligraphy masters), and Friday we warmed our ears and voices to what now sounds a little less like cats screeching, aka jingju (Peking opera). Our teachers are true masters at their arts, and it’s unfortunate some of their expertise gets lost in translation. Culture classes are all in Chinese, and while there is an interpreter, a girl who looks not much older than us, once in a while the masters will spout off what seems to be an essay full of information and all the ends up in English is about a sentence worth. Charades help.

Next task: relaxing while making Chinese friends. Best method? Create a circus. How to accomplish? Get a bunch of foreigners in a common public space to do outrageous tricks that Chinese people haven’t really seen before. Staring is culturally acceptable, so see what happens. I’m not much of an extrovert, therefore this is completely Max Diddams’ idea, not mine, but I wanted to tag along to check it out. One of his favorite hobbies in the US is called slacklining: 1) create a tightrope low to the ground between two trees, 2) walk (or attempt). This was my first time slacklining, so I was excited to get a couple steps before flying off, but Max is an old pro so a bunch of us were tossing frisbees with him and other crazy things. I also handed him one of my tennis rackets and he managed to volley back and forth with me while staying on the line. Pretty cool.

This method was pretty successful as passersby stopped to watch or gawk from afar. A couple young men even came over to talk with us, and one even worked up the nerve to hop on the line to try. One of the young men, whose name is Zhangxun, quickly became our friend and has even hung out with us a couple times now. He is pretty awesome at Taiji apparently, and when this other random guy showed up, we learned “red shirt guy” is really into martial arts so they got into a pretty heated discussion about which is more useful in life! I talked with a really nice girl who stopped by who was in a skirt and heels or we would have convinced her to try slacklining, and after she left, “red shirt guy” talked to me about various topics for about 45 minutes! He was not originally from Tianjin and had a really thick accent, so I mostly just let him talk and tried to get bits and pieces.

I also got to weave in and out of the slacklining activities as various friends agreed to play tennis with me! That was actually the original intent of my sporting adventure as Emily and I headed out with my two beat-up rackets and a can of balls, but when we entered the gate to the tennis courts, we got stopped by a whole host of old men all shouting various things. Eventually they calmed down so one could speak at a time, and that was how we learned they were still having gym class and even if we wanted to use a court we had to go to the gym to buy tickets. You can’t even hop on a court if it’s free! Improvising became vital, so Emily, Max, and Rob all ended up taking turns hitting with me in the open parking lot by the gym. This also brought on a lot of stares from the pedestrians, bike riders, and drivers hoping the waiguoren (foreigners) wouldn’t pelt them with tennis balls. No injuries, successful workout.

A group of us then went to Xinancun for dinner and chose which would soon become one of our favorite establishments: a small noodle restaurant. Other foods that cater to my tastes in Tianjin I've discovered are jiaozi, your standered steamed filled dumpling, and chuanr - skewers of whatever you like: lamb, beef, mushrooms, bok choy, other veggies, various portions of squid, you get the idea. My ideal lunch is a few veggie baozi and a couple beef chuanr. Here Alek and Rob ordered what seemed to function as omelet noodle soup (noodles, broth, tomatoes, and egg all in a bowl), and Kellianne and I both got bowls of niurou lamian, a beef and noodle soup, which was quite stingy on the beef, though. Our chopsticks went scuba diving for our few pieces of meat in that bowl. A delicious, warm meal nonetheless. A study party to get back into the swing of learning characters was just the ticket to end a good day.

Yesterday morning was a pleasant surprise. Apparently Tianjin's air quality is better than Beijing, but we found ourselves overjoyed to see direct sunlight and blue skies on Friday! After it rains (which very well could be acid rain, who knows...), the smog clears and brings lovely weather, but it doesn't seem to last long.

Although I’m still completely confuddled as to how to get to all of our important buildings on campus, it’s nice to feel like we can get into the swing of things here. After a full day of classes, we had to start thinking about our midterm break that is two weeks away. Our program will split up into travel groups that have free reign for about 10 days, and then we’ll reunite in Shanghai. My travel group went to the ticket station in Xinancun and stood in the drizzling rain for about a half hour only to be told it was too early to buy tickets for our trip because they only go on sale 10 days before. At least we know the tickets we want exist even though we’ll have to try again to purchase them in a couple days.

For our evening meal, Zhao Laoshi took out a group of whoever wanted to try a couple of Tianjin’s famous dishes. The main course of our dinner was called goubuli baozi. Baozi are steamed stuffed buns, and I guess Goubuli is Tianjin’s special variety. We ended up with a bro table and a girls’ table, and we swapped dishes back and forth so everyone could have a try before they’d be devoured by the boys. They were good to try once because they are Tianjin born, but I’m perfectly content with baozi that are just as tasty that you can get 5 for 4 kuai (a solid lunch for about 60 cents) at Xinancun! We all then headed to the village to poke around for some desserts, and I tried another Tianjin specialty recommended by our teachers called mahuar. It is a twisted braid of dough kind of like a churro but less sugar and much denser so again, yummy to try once!

The night’s entertainment is called kala-o-k or simply KTV by the Chinese. Guesses? One of my favorite activities with my Carleton friends, karaoke! Although at school we whip up our own version as we sing along with a laptop, but here it’s a pretty legit Friday night activity. A bunch of us foreigners divided up into three taxi groups and made sure there was at least one cell phone in each taxi, which came in handy when we made the “great, we’re here too, meet you inside phone calls,” only to meet only one of the taxi groups inside. Uh oh. We described the places we were on the phone to each other, and when they sounded quite similar but we still couldn’t find each other, we realized the other group had been taken by their driver to the exact same KTV but in a different district! These places are insanely nice, like a really elegant, expensive hotel atmosphere but filled with mostly rowdy teenagers, so I’m kind of surprised by how this type of Chinese business can afford to be extravagant compared to your average shops etc.



The other taxi group finally made it to the right KTV, and we got to hang out with our friend Zhangxun for a bit while waiting for a room. We had invited him to come karaoke with us only to discover that he worked at the KTV and was working the night we wanted to go! He got to sneak away to check on us once in a while, so that was fun. We packed 10 of us in one room, so it was pretty hard to hear yourself when you sang, but we all belted out a bunch of American songs, a good mix of pop, rock, and Disney tunes, and threw in a couple of Chinese songs for good measure when Zhangxun joined us at the end. And everybody made it back to campus safe and sound.